Transfer Case Switch Leaking Causing Oil To Get Sucked Into Vaccum Lines
In Progress
99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Ford F150 Side View Mirror Replacement Instructions
We finally had a Ford F150 come into our shop for a side mirror replacement and we are posting step by step instructions here. We have had many requests for this and we are also going to have a video posted soon. The instructions for this are very similair to all Ford truck models and please feel free to pass this on to friends in need. You can easily replace your entire side view mirror in under 30 minutes and avoid paying a high labor charge. Also their is no need to try and remove the glass part of the mirror only as this usually leads to breakage.
Tools Needed:
- Flat-head & phillips head screwdrivers
- metric ratchet & socket set (10mm is needed for the majority of these trucks)
Step 1:
- Verify & purchase the correct mirror. Their can be several different mirrors available to fit the same truck. For instance some mirrors are manual(non-powered), some power with heat, power without heat, power with turn signal, power with puddle light, etc, etc. It is very important to match all of the options exaclty in order to get the correct mirror. If you look at our other website and are still not sure of the mirror options, here is a handy little guide:
- Remove the door panel with the instructions below and get to the plug for the mirror. The plug will have pins in it. If you have 3 pins only, then you have a standard power, non-heated mirror. If you have 5 pins, then you have a power mirror with heat. If you have more then 5 pins, then you have extra options such as a turn signal and/or puddle light. A puddle light is a small light on the very bottom of the mirror housing. You almost have to lay flat on the ground and look direclty up to notice if you have one. Make sure to check this before buying the wrong mirror. You can also call us and we can help you verify the correct mirror (321)777-2771. Click Here to view and purchase a mirror if needed.
Step 2: Remove The Door Panel
- First remove the door pillar trim piece. This is the piece that covers the skinny piece of metal between the window glass and door frame, it runs up and down. Simply push in on the side to see and release the little clips that hold it to the door frame. It sometimes takes a little soft force to pop these clips out. See the picture below:
- Next, remove the door handle trim(not the entire door handle, just the trim), this may have 1 phillips head screw or may just be a clip in type. Look closely by slightly prying up and around the door handle for the clip and you can usually see a slot to slide it out of.
- Next remove the window switches, this can be done very easily. Take a small flathead screwdriver and push in on the back center of the switch trim piece. Thier is a small plastic clip that releases and then you can lift the back of the entire switch up and then slide it out of the door. The electrical connectors can be removed simply by pushing the quick disconnect tabs on each plug. You could also leave it connected and fish it through the hole in the door panel late but it is a little bit difficult. If you have manual windows, then remove the hand crank. Their is a plastic cover that simply lifts up and then you can see a screw that must be removed. These screws are occaisonally a torx style bit or phillips head.
- Next, remove the screws holding the door panel in place, see picture below:
- NOTE: Their may also be 2 screws at the very base of the door panel, look closely and remove if they exist.
- Once all of the screws are removed, simply lift up and out on the entire door panel and it should come right off. It is basically sitting in place with a bunch of plastic l brackets that fit into little holes. Lifting the door panel aligns the l brackets with the holes so you can lift up and the out and the door panel will come right off. Do not pull hard or direclty straight outward as you could possibly damage the door panel. NOTE: Their may also be a small lightbulb attached to the door panel, if this is the case, simply twist the socket and pull it out of the door panel. You will not be able to see this until you remove the panel from the door.
Step 3, Remove & Replace the mirror assembly:
- You have just done the hardest part of this job, now you simply unbolt and unplug the mirror and install the new replacement. Here is a couple of tips and a picture:
- Look at the inside of the door panel, direclty whee the mirror is attached. You may see a foam piece of insulation or a piece of insulating tape, remove whichever you have to see and access the 3 nuts that hold the mirror in place, see the picture.
- Next locate and unplug the electrical connector if you have a power mirror.
- Now you can remove the 3 nuts and the mirror, be sure to have a helper hold the mirror form the outside so it does not fall down onto the door and scrath it. Also be careful with the small nuts as it is possible to drop them down into the door panel. If this happens, you can usually get to them with a magnet. You want to remove them so they do not get caught in anything important like the window track, then you may be doing a window regulator replacement as well. Once you get the mirror off, you simply reverse the removal process.
Congratulations!!! You have just saved yourself some good cash as a shop can charge $80-$150 to do this for you. We will be posting a video of this job very soon. If you have technical questions, please call us at 321-777-2771. We also sell a full line of auto parts including mirrors at our website. Please check it out and pass these instructions on to whoever may need them. Thanks
How to Replace Intake Manifold GM 3800 3.8L: Pontiac Bonneville, Buick LeSabre, Pontiac Grand Prix etc..
The upper intake manifold is a very common failure point on the venerable GM 3800 Series II Engine. Often when it begins to fail, the car will show the symptoms of a head gasket failure, however actual head gaskets failing on this engine is VERY rare. One of the first signs of the intake manifold failure is coolant loss, these intakes can leak internally into the engine, or externally near the thermostat housing. In extreme cases, the leak can get so bad internally that it can actually Hydrolock (when an engine fills with so much liquid that the pistons cannot move up in their bore). This was the case on the example car I will show you today.In the case shown below, the owner of the car thought the head gaskets were bad, and it would need major repair or a new engine. After a quick inspection I knew it was only the intake manifold that was bad. The car had stalled on him, and would not turn over at all, acting like the engine was seized.
Before I start, here are the exact vehicles affected by this leak:
95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Pontiac Bonnville 3.8L
98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.8L
00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy Impala 3.8L
96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Buick Lesabre 3.8L
96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 Buick Regal 3.8L
95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Buick Park Avenue 3.8L
95 96 97 98 99 Oldsmobile Delta 88 3.8L
96 97 98 99 Oldsmobile LSS 3.8L
All 3.8L (3800) engines with VIN code K (8th digit of VIN) Non-supercharged
Before you tear into it, there are two important steps,
1) DISCONNECT the negative battery terminal
2) Drain any engine coolant that may still be in the car (there is a small drain near the bottom of the radiator). After these two steps, you must gain access to the intake manifold by removing some things that are in your way.
3) Remove the engine cover by turning the oil cap to loosen, then without pulling it off, continue to twist it counterclockwise, when it stops completely, pull the oil cap AND oil cap tube away from the engine. You can then lift the engine cover off of the engine.
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
3b)
Remove the air filter housing. Loosen the two philips screws on the housing itself, then pull the throttle body hose end off. (Peel back the top of the hose, then work around until the whole thing comes loose) Disconnect the plug going into the intake hose, and remove whole assembly from car.
4) If the spark plug wires aren’t marked, mark which one goes where on the coil pack, and pull the three plug wires that run to the rear off of the coil, and let them fall to the rear of the engine bay.
5) Remove serpentine belt.
6) Loosen the three alternator bolts and remove wiring from back of alternator. Remove alternator and set aside. NOTE: To remove one of the bolts, you must remove a bracket which runs from the Alternator to just below the Ignition coils.TIP: There is a bolt which is hard to see just below the belt idler pulley.
7) Remove the 6 Fuel Injector electrical plugs, (Squeeze in on the metal locks and pull up) Remove the three electrical connectors going to the throttle body. Remove the electrical connector going to the MAP sensor (sits on top of the intake manifold near the alternator)
Remove all vacuum lines going to the throttle body and intake manifold.
9) Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. You will see two plastic lines going the the fuel rail, they are both held in by small plastic clips. To remove them, squeeze in on the bottom of the clips, then pull up on the fuel line. **CAUTION** There may be some residual fuel pressure in one of the lines, so remove the lines very slowly and carefully.
10) Remove Fuel Rail with injectors. There are four nuts which keep the fuel rail, and injectors in place. Once you remove those four 10mm nuts, carefully wiggle and pull upwards on the fuel rail, and the injectors will unseat themselves from the lower intake manifold, and the whole fuel rail will come out. Set aside.
11) Remove Throttle Body. There is a bracket which connects the throttle body to the cylinder head, this little bracket blocks access to one of the throttle body nuts. My trick is to remove the Bracket-to-throttle body bolt, then carefully pry the bracket back until you have enough access to reach the nut with a deep 10mm socket and extension. You can leave the throttle cables attached to the throttle body, and just position the entire assembly aside.At this point, you should have clear access to the entire upper intake manifold.
12) Remove all of the upper intake manifold bolts, and remove the intake from the car. If the intake does not want to separate from the lower, then you most likely missed a bolt. it should NOT require any prying to get it loose.
13)Now if the intake was leaking internally badly, you will likely see an alarmingly large puddle of coolant sitting inside the engine. It is CRUCIAL that you remove all of this coolant, use Paper towels or old rags to soak it all up. Clean the gasket mating surface on the lower intake manifold.TIP: It is very important to have a clean mating surface on the top of the lower intake manifold, or you may encounter leaks.
14) Snap the upper intake gasket into place onto the bottom of the new upper intake manifold and place the upper intake back onto the car, make sure all the bolt holes are aligned.
15) Install and tighten all the bolts in the following sequenceNOTE: The Specified Torque is ONLY 89 INCH pounds,, which is less than 10 ft. pounds.. be very careful not to overtorque and risk cracking the new intake.
16) Reinstall all accessories and wiring, and fuel rail in the reverse order of removal. Refill the coolant system.
17) IMPORTANT STEP: If you saw ANY coolant at all inside the intake manifold upon removal,, you MUST replace the spark plugs. Also it is very important that you remove most of the coolant that may have entered the combustion chambers. Which is simple to do
17a) Remove all six spark plugs, and turn the engine over (pretend you’re starting it) for at least 30 seconds. Install six new spark plugs and you are good to go.
18) Start car and let idle for a while, check for any coolant leaks, carefully watch your temperature gage to make sure no overheating takes place. Once everything looks good, you are done!Congratulations, you just saved yourself Hundreds of Dollars by Replacing your own Intake Manifold on a 3.8 Liter 3800 Series II Car!
Written by Joe S.
Oxygen Sensor Problem Diagnosis and Information
Oxygen Sensors: How to Diagnose and Replace
By Larry Carley c2007
Today’s computerized engine control systems rely on inputs from a variety of sensors to regulate engine performance, emissions and other important functions. The sensors must provide accurate information otherwise driveability problems, increased fuel consumption and emission failures can result.One of the key sensors in this system is the oxygen (O2) sensor. It is often referred to as the “O2″ sensor because O2 is the chemical formula for oxygen (oxygen atoms always travel in pairs, never alone).The first O2 sensor was introduced in 1976 on a Volvo 240. California vehicles got them next in 1980 when California’s emission rules required lower emissions. Federal emission laws made O2 sensors virtually mandatory on all cars and light trucks built since 1981. And now that OBD-II regulations are here (1996 and newer vehicles), many vehicles are now equipped with multiple O2 sensors, some as many as four!The O2 sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold to monitor how much unburned oxygen is in the exhaust as the exhaust exits the engine. Monitoring oxygen levels in the exhaust is a way of gauging the fuel mixture. It tells the computer if the fuel mixture is burning rich (less oxygen) or lean (more oxygen).A lot of factors can affect the relative richness or leanness of the fuel mixture, including air temperature, engine coolant temperature, barometric pressure, throttle position, air flow and engine load. There are other sensors to monitor these factors, too, but the O2 sensor is the master monitor for what is happening with the fuel mixture. Consequently, any problems with the O2 sensor can throw the whole system out of whack.
LOOPS
The computer uses the oxygen sensor input to regulate the fuel mixture, which is referred to as the fuel “feedback control loop.” The computer takes its cues from the O2 sensor and responds by changing the fuel mixture. This produces a corresponding change in the O2 sensor reading. This is referred to as “closed loop” operation because the computer is using the O2 sensor’s input to regulate the fuel mixture. The result is a constant flip-flop back and forth from rich to lean which allows the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency while keeping the average overall fuel mixture in proper balance to minimize emissions. It is a complicated setup but it works. When no signal is received from the O2 sensor, as is the case when a cold engine is first started (or the 02 sensor fails), the computer orders a fixed (unchanging) rich fuel mixture. This is referred to as “open loop” operation because no input is used from the O2 sensor to regulate the fuel mixture.If the engine fails to go into closed loop when the O2 sensor reaches operating temperature, or drops out of closed loop because the O2 sensor signal is lost, the engine will run too rich causing an increase in fuel consumption and emissions. A bad coolant sensor can also prevent the system from going into closed loop because the computer also considers engine coolant temperature when deciding whether or not to go into closed loop.
HOW IT WORKS The O2 sensor works like a miniature generator and produces its own voltage when it gets hot. Inside the vented cover on the end of the sensor that screws into the exhaust manifold is a zirconium ceramic bulb. The bulb is coated on the outside with a porous layer of platinum. Inside the bulb are two strips of platinum that serve as electrodes or contacts.The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors “breathe” through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It is hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail.The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust and outside air within the sensor causes voltage to flow through the ceramic bulb. The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading.An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor output voltage will drop down to about 0.2 volts or less. When the air/fuel mixture is balanced or at the equilibrium point of about 14.7 to 1, the sensor will read around .45 volts.
When the computer receives a rich signal (high voltage) from the O2 sensor, it leans the fuel mixture to reduce the sensor’s reedback voltage. When the O2 sensor reading goes lean (low voltage), the computer reverses again making the fuel mixture go rich. This constant flip-flopping back and forth of the fuel mixture occurs with different speeds depending on the fuel system. The transition rate is slowest on engines with feedback carburetors, typically once per second at 2500 rpm. Engines with throttle body injection are somewhat faster (2 to 3 times per second at 2500 rpm), while engines with multiport injection are the fastest (5 to 7 times per second at 2500 rpm).The oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 degrees or higher) before it will start to generate a voltage signal, so many oxygen sensors have a small heating element inside to help them reach operating temperature more quickly. The heating element can also prevent the sensor from cooling off too much during prolonged idle, which would cause the system to revert to open loop.Heated O2 sensors are used mostly in newer vehicles and typically have 3 or 4 wires. Older single wire O2 sensors do not have heaters. When replacing an O2 sensor, make sure it is the same type as the original (heated or unheated) A NEW ROLE FOR O2 SENSORS WITH OBD IIStarting with a few vehicles in 1994 and 1995, and all 1996 and newer vehicles, the number of oxygen sensors per engine has doubled. A second oxygen sensor is now used downstream of the catalytic converter to monitor converter operating efficiency. On V6 or V8 engines with dual exhausts, this means up to four O2 sensors (one for each cylinder bank and one after each converter) may be used.
The OBD II system is designed to monitor the emissions performance of the engine. This includes keeping an eye on anything that might cause emissions to increase. The OBD II system compares the oxygen level readings of the O2 sensors before and after the converter to see if the converter is reducing the pollutants in the exhaust. If it sees little or no change in oxygen level readings, it means the converter is not working properly. This will cause the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) to come on.SENSOR DIAGNOSISO2 sensors are amazingly rugged considering the operating environment they live in. But O2 sensors do wear out and eventually have to be replaced.The performance of the O2 sensor tends to diminish with age as contaminants accumulate on the sensor tip and gradually reduce its ability to produce voltage. This kind of deterioration can be caused by a variety of substances that find their way into the exhaust such as lead, silicone, sulfur, oil ash and even some fuel additives. The sensor can also be damaged by environmental factors such as water, splash from road salt, oil and dirt.As the sensor ages and becomes sluggish, the time it takes to react to changes in the air/fuel mixture slows down which causes emissions to go up. This happens because the flip-flopping of the fuel mixture is slowed down which reduces converter efficiency. The effect is more noticeable on engines with multiport fuel injection (MFI) than electronic carburetion or throttle body injection because the fuel ratio changes much more rapidly on MFI applications.If the sensor dies altogether, the result can be a fixed, rich fuel mixture. Default on most fuel injected applications is mid-range after three minutes. This causes a big jump in fuel consumption as well as emissions. And if the converter overheats because of the rich mixture, it may suffer damage. One EPA study found that 70% of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2 sensor.The only way to know if the O2 sensor is doing its job is to inspect it regularly. That is why some vehicles (mostly imports) have a sensor maintenance reminder light. A good time to check the sensor is when the spark plugs are changed. You can read the O2 sensor’s output with a scan tool or digital voltmeter, but the transitions are hard to see because the numbers jump around so much. An analog voltmeter is better for viewing transitions, but may not respond quickly enough on systems with higher transition rates. So the best instrument for observing the O2 sensor voltage output is a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO). A scope will display the sensor voltage output as a wavy line that shows both it’s amplitude (minimum and maximum voltage) as well as its frequency (transition rate from rich to lean).
Oxygen Sensor Q & A
Q. How many oxygen sensors are on today’s engines?
A. It depends on the model year and type of engine. On most four and straight six cylinder engines, there is usually a single oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold. On V6, V8 and V10 engines, there are usually two oxygen sensors, one in each exhaust manifold. This allows the computer to monitor the air/fuel mixture from each bank of cylinders. When displayed on a scan tool, the right and left oxygen sensors are typically labeled Bank 1, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 1.
On later model vehicles with OBD II (some 1993 and ‘94 models, and all 1995 and newer models), one or two additional oxygen sensors are also mounted in or behind the catalytic converter to monitor converter efficiency. These are referred to as the downstream O2 sensors, and thee will be one for each converter if the engine has dual exhausts with separate converters.
On a scan tool, the downstream sensor on a four or straight six cylinder engine with single exhaust is typically labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2. On a V6, V8 or V10 engine, the downstream O2 sensor might be labeled Bank 1 or Bank 2, Sensor 2. If a V6, V8 or V10 engine has dual exhausts with dual converters, the downstream O2 sensors would be labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2 and Bank 2, Sensor 2. Or, the downstream oxygen sensor might be labeled Bank 1 Sensor 3 if the engine has two upstream oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold (some do to more accurately monitor emissions).
It’s important to know how the O2 sensors are identified because a diagnostic trouble code that indicates a faulty O2 sensor requires that sensor to be replaced. Bank 1 is usually the front bank of cylinders on a transverse mounted V6 engine. But on a longitudinal V6, V8 or V10 it could be either the right or left bank. It may therefore be necessary to refer to the vehicle service literature to determine how the cylinder banks and oxygen sensors are labeled.
Q. How does a downstream O2 sensor monitor converter efficiency?
A. A downstream oxygen sensor in or behind the catalytic converter works exactly the same as an upstream O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. The sensor produces a voltage that changes when the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust changes. If the O2 sensor is a traditional zirconia type sensor, the voltage output drops to about 0.2 volts when the fuel mixture is lean (more oxygen in the exhaust). When the fuel mixture is rich (less oxygen in the exhaust), the sensor’s output jumps up to a high of about 0.9 volts. The high or low voltage signal tells the PCM the fuel mixture is rich or lean.
On some newer vehicles, a new type of Wide Ratio Air Fuel (WRAF) Sensor is used. Instead of producing a high or low voltage signal, the signal changes in direct proportion to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. This provides a more precise measurement for better fuel control. These sensors are also called wideband oxygen sensors because they can read very lean air/fuel mixtures.
The OBD II system monitors converter efficiency by comparing the upstream and downstream oxygen sensor signals. If the converter is doing its job and is reducing the pollutants in the exhaust, the downstream oxygen sensor should show little activity (few lean-to-rich transitions, which are also called “crosscounts”). The sensor’s voltage reading should also be fairly steady (not changing up or down), and average 0.45 volts or higher.
If the signal from the downstream oxygen sensor starts to mirror that from the upstream oxygen sensor(s), it means converter efficiency has dropped off and the converter isn’t cleaning up the pollutants in the exhaust. The threshold for setting a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turning on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is when emissions are estimated to exceed federal limits by 1.5 times. See Troubleshooting a P0420 Catalyst Code for more info about converter problems.
If converter efficiency had declined to the point where the vehicle may be exceeding the pollution limit, the PCM will turn on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) and set a diagnostic trouble code. At that point, additional diagnosis may be needed to confirm the failing converter. If the upstream and downstream O2 sensors are functioning properly and show a drop off in converter efficiency, the converter must be replaced to restore emissions compliance. The vehicle will not pass an OBD II emissions test if there are any converter codes in the PCM.
Q. What’s the difference between a “heated” and “unheated” oxygen sensor?
A. Heated oxygen sensors have an internal heater circuit that brings the sensor up to operating temperature more quickly than an unheated sensor. An oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650 degrees F) before it will generate a voltage signal. The hot exhaust from the engine will provide enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it make take several minutes depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback control system remains in “open loop” and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.
By adding an internal heater circuit to the oxygen sensor, voltage can be routed through the heater as soon as the engine starts to warm up the sensor. The heater element is a resistor that glows red hot when current passes through it. The heater will bring the sensor up to operating temperature within 20 to 60 seconds depending on the sensor, and also keep the oxygen sensor hot even when the engine is idling for a long period of time.
Heated O2 sensors typically have two-three or four wires (the extra wires are for the heater circuit). Note: Replacement O2 sensors must have the same number of wires as the original, and have the same internal resistance.
The OBD II system also monitors the heater circuit and will set a trouble code if the heater circuit inside the O2 sensor is defective. The heater is part of the sensor and cannot be replaced separately, so if the heater circuit is open or shorted and the problem is not in the external wiring or sensor connector, the O2 sensor must be replaced.