Taking the mystery out of Oxygen Sensors.

Many automobile owners and enthusiasts have heard of oxygen sensors, and know that their car has one or more of them. But how many people really understand their purpose and importance to the vehicle’s engine? 

New Oxygen Sensor

New Oxygen Sensor

 

Modern fuel injected engines depend on a large number of factors to keep the engine running smooth and efficient.  One of the most important factors in this complicated process comes from the oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors send data to the computer to help it determine whether the engine is running rich (too much fuel) or lean (too little fuel) and the computer can then make the proper adjustments to the fuel ratio.

Oxygen sensors (o2 Sensors) have been used in almost every car since the early 1980’s. They have progressed technologically to the efficient and reliable state that they are today. Oxygen sensors depend on being hot in order to work properly, the original sensors would not work until the heat from the exhaust actually heated them up enough to start working. During that heat up time, the computer could not use the oxygen sensor data to help determine the fuel ratio. This would cause early fuel injected engines to be very inefficient until the exhaust has heated up the oxygen sensor enough to allow it to start working. Modern sensors actually have a built in heater which very quickly heats the sensing element inside the oxygen sensor so that it can begin sending data almost immediately to the computer after start-up.

For many people the terminology used to explain oxygen sensor locations can be intimidating but it’s actually quite simple. They are usually listed one of two different ways, the more common way is, for example, Upstream bank 1, or Downstream bank 2 etc. This odd sounding terminology is actually quite simple to understand. The ‘Bank’ is simply a way of explaining which side of the engine the sensor is on. Bank 1 is always the side that has cylinder number 1 on it, you may have to reference a firing order diagram to determine where cylinder number one is. Bank 2 is always the side opposite of bank 1. Upstream and Downstream are even easier. Upstream simply means before the catalytic converter (closer to the engine), while downstream means after the converter (closer to the tailpipe). So here is an example, if you want to replace the Upstream bank 2 sensor, you simply find the number one cylinder, go to the opposite side of the engine, and the correct sensor is the one in the exhaust closest to the engine. But wait, there’s more! Another terminology common to Oxygen Sensors looks like so: B1S2, B2S1 or B1S1. This is actually easy to understand as well, the B# stands for Bank # , and the S# stands for Sensor #. the Bank is the same as the previous example, and for the sensor number, S1 means upstream (before the converter), S2 means downstream (after the converter). So if you see B1S2 that means the sensor on Bank 1 After the Catalytic Converter.

So what’s the difference between upstream and downstream oxygen sensors? Actually quite a bit. They both have unique functions, the upstream sensors’ main function is to monitor the air fuel ratio coming directly out of the engine, and use that data to help the engine perform properly. The downstream sensors, however, have a completely different use. Their primary task is to monitor how effectively the catalytic converter(s) are working. When a catalytic converter is working properly, the downstream oxygen sensor will output a relatively steady voltage of about .5 volts (after everything is at optimal temperature). If the converter is going bad, the voltage coming from the downstream sensor will be almost identical to the voltage coming from the upstream, which fluctuates between .2 and .8 volts while the engine is running.

Oxygen sensors fail for a number of reasons, one of the most common failures in modern sensors is the built in heater failing. When the heater fails, the sensor becomes like the older ones and depends on the exhaust to heat it up before it begins working which again causes the engine to run inefficiently until the sensor heats up fully. All cars after 1996 are designed to monitor the heaters inside the oxygen sensor, and will turn on your check engine light if they detect a problem with any of them. Another common failure of o2 sensors is caused from the buildup of carbon and foreign material on the sensor itself. Over time this can cause the sensor to become “sluggish” in it’s response time, which can can also affect performance and fuel economy. The computer will usually turn on the check engine light when it detects that the sensor is responding sluggishly. There is no way to clean or repair the sensor once it becomes sluggish and must therefore be replaced.

After years of usage, oxygen sensors can degrade in performance  yet not cause your check engine light to come on. If the computer “assumes” the sensors are working properly, but they are really sending inacurate data, the computer will make adjustments to the fuel ratio that should not be made. This can also cause numerous problems, from decreased fuel economy, to poor running condition.

Oxygen sensors are subjected to severe conditions throughout their life in your vehicle.  Over time the constant exposure to temperatures as high as 1,000 Degrees Fahrenheit as well as carbon buildup on the sensor, will cause the sensor to be slow to respond and less accurate. This can cause a reduction in performance, and a drastic drop in fuel efficiency.

Old Oxygen Sensor

 Old worn oxygen sensor.

                Replace your Oxygen Sensors every 60,000 – 100,000 miles to help keep your engine running in peak condition and prevent future problems. You can order brand new oxygen sensors for your car here: www.autopartsdirect2you.com

 

- Joe Stepnicka

-www.autopartsdirecttoyou.com

-Duplication of part or all of this article is strictly prohibited without the author’s written permission.

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99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Ford F150 Side View Mirror Replacement Instructions

We finally had a Ford F150 come into our shop for a side mirror replacement and we are posting step by step instructions here. We have had many requests for this and we are also going to have a video posted soon. The instructions for this are very similair to all Ford truck models and please feel free to pass this on to friends in need. You can easily replace your entire side view mirror in under 30 minutes and avoid paying a high labor charge. Also their is no need to try and remove the glass part of the mirror only as this usually leads to breakage.

 f150_turn_signal_mirror

Tools Needed:

  • Flat-head & phillips head screwdrivers
  • metric ratchet & socket set (10mm is needed for the majority of these trucks)

Step 1:

  • Verify & purchase the correct mirror. Their can be several different mirrors available to fit the same truck. For instance some mirrors are manual(non-powered), some power with heat, power without heat, power with turn signal, power with puddle light, etc, etc. It is very important to match all of the options exaclty in order to get the correct mirror. If you look at our other website and are still not sure of the mirror options, here is a handy little guide:
  • Remove the door panel with the instructions below and get to the plug for the mirror. The plug will have pins in it. If you have 3 pins only, then you have a standard power, non-heated mirror. If you have 5 pins, then you have a power mirror with heat. If you have more then 5 pins, then you have extra options such as a turn signal and/or puddle light. A puddle light is a small light on the very bottom of the mirror housing. You almost have to lay flat on the ground and look direclty up to notice if you have one. Make sure to check this before buying the wrong mirror. You can also call us and we can help you verify the correct mirror (321)777-2771. Click Here to view and purchase a mirror if needed.

Step 2: Remove The Door Panel

  • First remove the door pillar trim piece. This is the piece that covers the skinny piece of metal between the window glass and door frame, it runs up and down. Simply push in on the side to see and release the little clips that hold it to the door frame. It sometimes takes a little soft force to pop these clips out. See the picture below:
  • ford_f150_mirror_replacement_door_panel_removal
  • Next, remove the door handle trim(not the entire door handle, just the trim), this may have 1 phillips head screw or may just be a clip in type. Look closely by slightly prying up and around the door handle for the clip and you can usually see a slot to slide it out of.
  • Next remove the window switches, this can be done very easily. Take a small flathead screwdriver and push in on the back center of the switch trim piece. Thier is a small plastic clip that releases and then you can lift the back of the entire switch up and then slide it out of the door. The electrical connectors can be removed simply by pushing the quick disconnect tabs on each plug. You could also leave it connected and fish it through the hole in the door panel late but it is a little bit difficult. If you have manual windows, then remove the hand crank. Their is a plastic cover that simply lifts up and then you can see a screw that must be removed. These screws are occaisonally a torx style bit or phillips head.
  • Next, remove the screws holding the door panel in place, see picture below:
  • NOTE: Their may also be 2 screws at the very base of the door panel, look closely and remove if they exist.
  • door_panel_screw_locations_for_removal
  • Once all of the screws are removed, simply lift up and out on the entire door panel and it should come right off. It is basically sitting in place with a bunch of plastic l brackets that fit into little holes. Lifting the door panel aligns the l brackets with the holes so you can lift up and the out and the door panel will come right off. Do not pull hard or direclty straight outward as you could possibly damage the door panel. NOTE: Their may also be a small lightbulb attached to the door panel, if this is the case, simply twist the socket and pull it out of the door panel. You will not be able to see this until you remove the panel from the door.

Step 3, Remove & Replace the mirror assembly:

  • You have just done the hardest part of this job, now you simply unbolt and unplug the mirror and install the new replacement. Here is a couple of tips and a picture:
  • f150_side_mirror_instructions_replacement
  • Look at the inside of the door panel, direclty whee the mirror is attached. You may see a foam piece of insulation or a piece of insulating tape, remove whichever you have to see and access the 3 nuts that hold the mirror in place, see the picture.
  • Next locate and unplug the electrical connector if you have a power mirror.
  • Now you can remove the 3 nuts and the mirror, be sure to have a helper hold the mirror form the outside so it does not fall down onto the door and scrath it. Also be careful with the small nuts as it is possible to drop them down into the door panel. If this happens, you can usually get to them with a magnet. You want to remove them so they do not get caught in anything important like the window track, then you may be doing a window regulator replacement as well. Once you get the mirror off, you simply reverse the removal process.

Congratulations!!! You have just saved yourself some good cash as a shop can charge $80-$150 to do this for you. We will be posting a video of this job very soon. If you have technical questions, please call us at 321-777-2771. We also sell a full line of auto parts including mirrors at our website. Please check it out and pass these instructions on to whoever may need them. Thanks

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How to Replace Intake Manifold GM 3800 3.8L: Pontiac Bonneville, Buick LeSabre, Pontiac Grand Prix etc..

The upper intake manifold is a very common failure point on the venerable GM 3800 Series II Engine. Often when it begins to fail, the car will show the symptoms of a head gasket failure, however actual head gaskets failing on this engine is VERY rare. One of the first signs of the intake manifold failure is coolant loss, these intakes can leak internally into the engine, or externally near the thermostat housing. In extreme cases, the leak can get so bad internally that it can actually Hydrolock (when an engine fills with so much liquid that the pistons cannot move up in their bore). This was the case on the example car I will show you today.In the case shown below, the owner of the car thought the head gaskets were bad, and it would need major repair or a new engine. After a quick inspection I knew it was only the intake manifold that was bad. The car had stalled on him, and would not turn over at all, acting like the engine was seized.

Before I start, here are the exact vehicles affected by this leak:

95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Pontiac Bonnville 3.8L

98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.8L

00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy Impala 3.8L

96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Buick Lesabre 3.8L

96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 Buick Regal 3.8L

95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 Buick Park Avenue 3.8L

95 96 97 Buick Riviera 3.8L

95 96 97 98 Olds Regency 3.8L

95 96 97 98 99 Oldsmobile Delta 88 3.8L

96 97 98 99 Oldsmobile LSS 3.8L

All 3.8L (3800) engines with VIN code K (8th digit of VIN) Non-supercharged

Before you tear into it, there are two important steps,

1) DISCONNECT the negative battery terminal

2) Drain any engine coolant that may still be in the car (there is a small drain near the bottom of the radiator). After these two steps, you must gain access to the intake manifold by removing some things that are in your way.

3) Remove the engine cover by turning the oil cap to loosen, then without pulling it off, continue to twist it counterclockwise, when it stops completely, pull the oil cap AND oil cap tube away from the engine. You can then lift the engine cover off of the engine.


3b)

Remove the air filter housing. Loosen the two philips screws on the housing itself, then pull the throttle body hose end off. (Peel back the top of the hose, then work around until the whole thing comes loose) Disconnect the plug going into the intake hose, and remove whole assembly from car.

4) If the spark plug wires aren’t marked, mark which one goes where on the coil pack, and pull the three plug wires that run to the rear off of the coil, and let them fall to the rear of the engine bay.

5) Remove serpentine belt.

6) Loosen the three alternator bolts and remove wiring from back of alternator. Remove alternator and set aside. NOTE: To remove one of the bolts, you must remove a bracket which runs from the Alternator to just below the Ignition coils.TIP: There is a bolt which is hard to see just below the belt idler pulley.

7) Remove the 6 Fuel Injector electrical plugs, (Squeeze in on the metal locks and pull up) Remove the three electrical connectors going to the throttle body. Remove the electrical connector going to the MAP sensor (sits on top of the intake manifold near the alternator)Remove Injector

8) Remove all vacuum lines going to the throttle body and intake manifold.

9) Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. You will see two plastic lines going the the fuel rail, they are both held in by small plastic clips. To remove them, squeeze in on the bottom of the clips, then pull up on the fuel line. **CAUTION** There may be some residual fuel pressure in one of the lines, so remove the lines very slowly and carefully.

10) Remove Fuel Rail with injectors. There are four nuts which keep the fuel rail, and injectors in place. Once you remove those four 10mm nuts, carefully wiggle and pull upwards on the fuel rail, and the injectors will unseat themselves from the lower intake manifold, and the whole fuel rail will come out. Set aside.

11) Remove Throttle Body. There is a bracket which connects the throttle body to the cylinder head, this little bracket blocks access to one of the throttle body nuts. My trick is to remove the Bracket-to-throttle body bolt, then carefully pry the bracket back until you have enough access to reach the nut with a deep 10mm socket and extension. You can leave the throttle cables attached to the throttle body, and just position the entire assembly aside.At this point, you should have clear access to the entire upper intake manifold.

12) Remove all of the upper intake manifold bolts, and remove the intake from the car. If the intake does not want to separate from the lower, then you most likely missed a bolt. it should NOT require any prying to get it loose.

13)Now if the intake was leaking internally badly, you will likely see an alarmingly large puddle of coolant sitting inside the engine. It is CRUCIAL that you remove all of this coolant, use Paper towels or old rags to soak it all up. Clean the gasket mating surface on the lower intake manifold.TIP: It is very important to have a clean mating surface on the top of the lower intake manifold, or you may encounter leaks.

14) Snap the upper intake gasket into place onto the bottom of the new upper intake manifold and place the upper intake back onto the car, make sure all the bolt holes are aligned.

15) Install and tighten all the bolts in the following sequenceNOTE: The Specified Torque is ONLY 89 INCH pounds,, which is less than 10 ft. pounds.. be very careful not to overtorque and risk cracking the new intake.Tightening Sequence

16) Reinstall all accessories and wiring, and fuel rail in the reverse order of removal. Refill the coolant system.

17) IMPORTANT STEP: If you saw ANY coolant at all inside the intake manifold upon removal,, you MUST replace the spark plugs. Also it is very important that you remove most of the coolant that may have entered the combustion chambers. Which is simple to do

17a) Remove all six spark plugs, and turn the engine over (pretend you’re starting it) for at least 30 seconds. Install six new spark plugs and you are good to go.

18) Start car and let idle for a while, check for any coolant leaks, carefully watch your temperature gage to make sure no overheating takes place. Once everything looks good, you are done!Congratulations, you just saved yourself Hundreds of Dollars by Replacing your own Intake Manifold on a 3.8 Liter 3800 Series II Car!

Written by Joe S.

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