Comments on: GMC/Chevy 2500 & 3500 Pickups (Includes HD Models) Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions

By: michael bernholz

michael bernholz — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 23:40:51 +0000

excellent stuff…thank you

By: Jeff

Jeff — Sat, 16 May 2009 06:35:23 +0000

Your info was a huge help in replacing my H2’s hubs. Thank You for such an informative post with proper Torque specs! Anyone that has a vehicle with this hub and keeps it for a long period of time will probably do this twice. Seems to be a 50K mile part. Thanks to this info it is an easy fix!

By: Troy

Troy — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 01:49:11 +0000

Thank you, what a huge help this website was for me! Good luck on the bolts that hold the brake calipar frame to the axle support, they are tight. The step-by-step process was perfect. I found the hub assembale at Advanced Auto for 187.99. Make sure you shop around,Good luck and thank you!

By: Replacing Front Hubs and upgrading Brakes on My 99 2500 Burb - Airstream Trailer & Motorhome Community

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:49:56 +0000

[…] with this job. One of the sites I found has a step by step detailed instructions on how to. GMC/Chevy 2500 & 3500 Pickups (Includes HD Models) Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructi… I have had some luck buying parts on eBay so I had a look around. Here are some of the parts I […]

By: Louie

Louie — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 16:57:29 +0000

Just a note. The 22mm wrench/socket is too big for the caliper bracket bolts , at least for my 2001 2500HD GMC 4×4. A 13/16 - 1/2 drive socket fits.

Also note, if continue to drive on a bad hub, (my “slop” was barely 3/4 inch), the inner side top of the rotor will directly rub (grind) on the Knuckle (near the upper ball joint, which I really believe is the grinding noise that is heard (felt). I am sure that there can be metal-to-metal sparks going on, with likely the sparks hitting the Brake line. (Danger)… As a secondary, you are not likely to get a shop to turn the rotor if you are also going to do a brake job at the same time with the result of this rotor “grind”, due to the material ground away from the inner top of the rotor (1/4 inch “hit”). The pads dont really come in contact with this area of the rotor though.

Good Job on the web page. Likely would not have done the work myself if I had not read this article. Your right, if you can do a brake job, you can do this. Breaker Bar and 2 inch diameter / 2ft long pipe manditory. Had it completely broke down in two hours, and about 1.5 hours to assemble (in the freezing cold of my driveway in Feb in Michigan).

Regards,

Louie

By: Jim Watson

Jim Watson — Sat, 15 Dec 2007 15:59:08 +0000

This bearing replacement was going to cost me $525.00 at a shop, I found your web page and wow how easy. My cost now is $153.00. I thank you and surely my wife Thanks you. Jim Watson